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The Budapest European fashion week, full of fashion shows, events and conferences took place in the wonderful city of Budapest for the Spring Summer 2020 edition on November 4th-10th. In the calendar there were many Hungarian designers already protagonists of the Hungarian Fashion and Design Agency program in collaboration with the National Chamber of Italian Fashion, a mentoring program project promoted by CNMI that is successfully growing. The partnership involves six designers such as Abodi, Artist, Cukovy, Elysian, Zsigmond Dora and Je Suis Belle. Last season, these brands were part of the Milan fashion week, receiving considerable positive feedback from the press and from the buyers.

The fashion shows took place in the heart of the city, conveying that magical flavor and a mix of cultural and aesthetic suggestions, a crossroad between East and West.

The locations were the Bálna Budapest, a large interactive space with exhibitions and meeting points for young people and the local public and the Tesla Event Kult an old industrial building. On the first day of the calendar, Tesla hosted Sofia Rousinovich’s Ukrainian guest Roussin, demonstrating her creativity with a streetwear collection of oversized coats and sweatshirts, interesting because her collection was hand-decorated with writings and sprays and using reflective materials.

Also in the Tesla building, the Italian guest this year was the designer Gilberto Calzolari who demonstrated his talent for his style with sustainable fabrics such as ecological cork garments with tropical prints, frilled flounced skirts and many saharian shirts. Another green collection was the one of Patrick Mc Dowell who distinguished himself for the “spectacular” show with a few unisex but effective garments such as suits, overalls with exaggerated cuts and ethical fabrics.

The young emerging students of the Young Talents Show took part in the first evening of fashion shows, including Nóra Larcher of the Art and Design University of Cluj-Napoca that introduced interesting duvet outfits, Borbála Ferencz from Mome in Budapest, and the multicolored graffiti of Ilonca Bianca.

Among the most famous Hungarian designers there were the names of Nanushka, Cukovy, Abodi, Virag Kerenyi.
Szandra Sándar’s Nanushka is certainly among the most famous designers, her collection presents garments with simple cuts , earthy colors with few touches of green and black, two pieces with short pants and long jackets, and a sustainable material, the vegan leather, very soft to the touch.
Kata Szegedi is an emerging collection that shows her talent as an artist (she comes from the Krea Contemporary Art Institute) The designer in collaboration with Daniel Benus presented many jackets, long size in organza, bright metallic colors shirts such as green and silver. Among the brands supported by the fashion chamber, Cukovy is the one belonging to the world of activewear. The designer Dora Zsigmond has proposed interesting duvets with ethnic cuts in bright colors like yellow and cycling pants with detachable parts

The last day of the calendar Katalin Artist Imre, Nóra Rácz and Katalin Stampf, were showing their Hungarian brand Artista. The result is an elegant and minimal feminine image with floral and portraits themes with block colors.
Boglárka Bódis, the Elysian designer, proposed cocktail looks and many pleats into the rhythm of a magical music (www.bcefw.com)

Photo Credit: https://bcefw.com/

The season began with Benetton’s debut and the new Artistic Direction of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. “The Rainbow Machine” is the name of the first collection signed by the French designer and artist, a tribute to the vivid colors of the rainbow.

In 1981 he had created Iceberg brand,  being the founding member, the famous shirt with unforgettable cartoons….Gucci, went back to his headquarter in via Mecenate, leaving Paris catwalk, while Maison Margiela  presented the MM6 line for the first time in Milan.

Moncler  organized an amazing event in Milan , the “Genius project ” along the tracks of the Central station.Bottega Veneta, showed the first collection at the Arco Della Pace, signed by the new artistic director Daniel Lee, who succeeded Tomas Maier.

Angel Chen, came back to show in Milan a very colorful and futuristic collection.

The Belgian A.F. Vandevorst and Philipp Plein, returned to show in New York.

Giorgio Armani, presented for the first time  man & woman at the Armani / Silos museum.

Some young designers showed this season that I liked such as Calcaterra, Arthur Arbesser, Annakiki, and Marco Rambaldi, winner last season of ‘Next Generation’ event promoted by CMM .Finally, out of calendar, Dolce & Gabbana wanted to recreate an atelier atmosphere of the 50s in his theater, showing 128 looks with a speaker that presented each exit.

Elisabetta Franchi made a new luxury show mixing crazy pieces with elegant ones.

Aspesi opened its mega store in Via dell’Orto with  artworks of Lorenzo Vitturi.

Double J with its fun and musical performance in Galleria, GentryPortofino with its refined “white” installation, Alanui in the beautiful location of the Atellani family, Plan C with its minimal chic glamour.   Speaking instead of sustainability there have been many events related to this theme.

Bav Taylor, is a talented young Indian designer who grew up in England and presented her beautiful collection at White, in a new space, and in a pop up store in Corso Garibaldi 46. The designer is among the figures best known in the field of sustainability, always invited to conferences on sustainability, such as the one held at the Italian Embassy in Florence in January.

Tiziano Guardini, the first winner of the “Green Carpet” ecological fashion Oscars in 2017 and Gilberto Calzolari  winner of the 2018 edition of the ‘Green Carpet Awards’ as well as Carlotta Canepa, a brand with an eco-sustainable production, totally Made in Italy, have been supported for the second consecutive season by CMM.

Laura Strambi a pioneer of sustainability presented her collection in the beautiful setting of Palazzo Mercanti, proposing an interesting project, the “Turbante BB” a project with the major representatives of the Embassy of Benin in Italy.  The goal is to support the women of the Beninese textile supply chain with a collection of turbans reinterpreted in a fashion mood. This is the season of the turban that depopulates everywhere, from Gucci to the still very popular African turbans. My stories on sustainabilitygoes on..

Designers Apartment

Is an incubator and showroom in Paris conceived by  “the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode”. Headed by Patricia Lerat, each season she selects together with a specialized commitee  mostly young French talents to show their creativity and their collections. During Paris Fashion Week®, the designers present their collections to the press and to international buyers coming from all over the world. Next Fair will be held from February 26^th until Tuesday March 5^th.

Among the new comers : Dawei, Ester Manas,Gndr, le Studio Pierre,Marianna Ladreyt, Rouge Margaux, Sadaels…

London showrooms at TRANOI week

The British fashion Council launched London showrooms in 2008, bringing emerging talents on international panorama in different cities, including Paris. It gives the opportunity to emerging British designers to promote themselves. Last season I saw these designers:

See the best moments from Homo Faber 2018 in my photo gallery.

I could not miss At the Fondazione Giorgio Cini, at the island of San Giorgio Maggiore, from 14th to 30th September 2018 in Venice , an amazing event, Homo Faber 2018 Fair ,a new cultural movement, aiming to support master artisans of fashion, interior design, art restoration, luxury goods and simple everyday objects, handcrafting objects of true excellence. It showcased the talent of more than 400 master artisans working in Europe whose more than 90 worked live on site, showing the public the value that craftsmanship brings demonstrating their fascinating skills and techniques to visitors, from wood carving and embroidery to gem sculpting and fore-edge painting.

In addition in this beautiful venue, 16 incredible exhibition spaces featured in Homo Faber 2018 and experience the finest French craftsmanship, exquisite contemporary haute couture, artistic photographs of Venetian workshops, exclusive collaborations between designers and artisans, stunning objects made by Europe’s best artist- what I liked

DISCOVER THE ARTISANAL TALENT INSPIRING THE CONTEMPORARY FASHION INDUSTRY
Fashion designers are often in the limelight, but most of us are unaware about the transformative power of the hand on raw materials and the vital role of craftsmanship both in fashion itself and the way it is exhibited.
Bottega Ghianda are so treasured by top designers, who know by collaborating with these ‘poets of wood’ their designs will be brought to life with sensitivity and flair, such as Mario Bellini, Gae Aulenti, Emanuela Frattini Magnusson, Cini Boeri or Pino Tovaglia.

FASHION PAYS HOMAGE TO CRAFTSMANSHIP
Nowhere is the power of the human hand more visible than in its ability to transform natural materials. Whether it be a Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel gown made with wooden beads, a Schiaparelli cape in raffia, or a Capucci dress adorned with pebbles, this exhibit shows how nature’s bounty can be a glorious source of inspiration for designers, when put in the masterful hands of talented artisans.

Eight extraordinary artisans encounter talented international designers. A dialogue between artisan-designer pairs who have worked together to create lasting objects of beauty .

Some designers I particularly liked:

Bonotto
Bonotto Spa is a fourth-generation textile manufacturer founded by Luigi Bonotto in 1912 in order to produce, at the beginning
Fifty years later, thanks to the intuition of Nicla Donazzan and Luigi Bonotto II, this creative and manufacturing expertise was transformed into a jewel of textile productivity that has grown along with the Italian fashion system. Bonotto wins the Sustainable Producer prize at the Green Carpet Fashion Awards 2018 hosted by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana in cooperation with Eco-Age.

The event took place yesterday, Sunday 23 September, at Milan’s Teatro alla Scala, at the end of Milan Fashion Week. The GCFA, Italy, celebrates the achievements in sustainability within the luxury and fashion industries.

Morelato chair
Spanish designer Inma Bermúdez was inspired by traditional porcelain moulds at Este Ceramiche Porcellane, but she put her own contemporary style to the decoration of her chosen items.

Dresses and memorabilia in a textile scenery by Bonotto

I had the chance to visit the exhibition “Private Callas “ in collaboration with the Roads publishing house, Santex Rimar Group , sponsored by Marzotto project Foundation at the seat of Palazzo Durini 24. An exhibit, among the objects -the dresses of Maria -precious creations of evening dresses of Biki, Dior and Saint Laurent, portrais, photos, theatre costumes, that witness the past of the soprano at La Scala and her taste and style.

On this occasion Bonotto factory realized a series of textiles scenographies that recall with their cromatism and particularity the stages of the theater la Scala during those years
The creative Director , Mr Bonotto , says about this event : “ I felt when I was creating these textiles like being in a dark room when suddenly a light comes in, a sort of flash, the lights of her jewels, the roar of the applause… and then the magic silence of the nature that bursts into the room “. “Maria is an extraordinary protagonist of the year XX, at the same time a fantastic occasion to celebrate the fashion of that time