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The man’s winter edition is plenty of special projects for the future of the global fashion community.

“Pitti is like the United Nations of Fashion where each brand has its own flag but also where each of us can become the flag of ourselves” says Agostino Poletto General Manager of Pitti Immagine. The flag is not a silent fabric but it tells the story of the thought belonging to every country in the world.

Pitti is back for the FW 97th edition on men’s fashion scenarios with a turnout of about 36,000 visitors.

Going in order of date, on January 7th Brioni offered a special presentation on the first day of opening at Pitti. An event curated by Oliver Saillard presented the collection with an installation that pays tribute to him, a reminiscent return of the brand’s first fashion show held in 1952 at Palazzo Pitti.

Jil Sander was the guest designer and presented the new menswear collection in the iconic fashion house with a special event held on Wednesday January 8th.

Special guest was Stefano Pilati with “Random Identities” the first independent project with a special event held on January 9th. This is a collection conceived for the digital age with exceptional quality clothing to satisfy a high-quality clientele. Also on the same day, the unisex Telfar brand presented the special Project Pitti (Telfar Clemens who founded the brand in 2005 in New York) and brought its concept through a special event of fluid fashion “simplex” (simplex + complex). His creations are born by reworking vintage clothes exhibited in museums around the world like the Guggenheim and the New Museum in New York.

During those days there were also special events such as, Blauer with Human Landascapes, an exhibition that told the story through images and visual narration landscapes and characters related to their brand’s storyboard, the French brand Chevignon celebrated its 40th anniversary with a special event held on January 7th. Woolrich returned to Pitti with “The Ultimate Woolrich Experience” an installation that inaugurated the Arctic Parka, a tribute to the evolution of the iconic garment. For sportswear, Sergio Tacchini presented his new collection with the new stylist Dao-Yi-Chao, on January 8th, while K-Way introduced an event to celebrate the history of the historic raincoat brand.

Pitti inaugurated new spaces; Think Green held the headquarter in Lyceum where debates took place on conscious production and eco-design.
The debuts I saw for this season can be summarized as follows: Herno, Closed, Falke, Sergio Rossi Uomo, Bosco, brand of the Russian group Bosco di Ciliegi. Arc’teryx Veilance (Canada) F / CE (Japan) and Rolf Ekroth (Finland) were among the new brands to report.

Into the Future Male Pavilion, I saw the return of Sealup and Cote & Ciel a Parisian brand of backpacks, Hunter, Jet Set founded in St. Moritz in 1969. Daoyuan Ding, winner of the ITS award.

The concept “My wardrobe man outerwear to innovate wool craftmanship” was launched, an idea by Woolmark company.

The projects on the new scenarios of fashion design also included Scandinavian brands, in collaboration with Revolver Copenaghen.
Always at the forefront for collaborations at the Touch Pavilion there was the return of the finalists of the Tokyo Fashion Award and at the Strozzi Arena the designers of Chinese brands which are more and more increasingly becoming part of our fashion global scene.

The Central Pavilion with the Italian Classic always remains the centerpiece of the fair, a central square for tailoring, able to mix the most classic styles with casual clothing and sportswear.

Touch is the section that combines internationality with stylistic research. The most Street style Pavilions still remain Lyceum, Unconventional, Cavaniglia Pavilion and other neighboring areas. If you are a buyer and you want to prepare yourself better before your visit to Pitti for next SS season, I recommend downloading Pitti Smart App to discover all the services and preview and the brand history of the participants.

To summarize, the new themes that this year Pitti wanted to trasmit through the fashion shows / presentations listed, were the “new formal” a mixture of classic and contemporary style.

On the innovation side, there was a special area dedicated to young emerging brands with a focus on sustainability, a topic subject increasingly in the fashion sector. Will tell you more in my next visit, crossing fingers that we’ll defeat corona virus soon.

The 45th edition of Portugal Fashion week promoted by ANJE and ATP took place in Porto from 23rd to 26th of October 2019 into the magical place of Alfandega do Porto, once the old custom and now the seat of the Congress Center, and for this occasion the venue for the fashion shows.

Over 30 collections have paraded for the Spring-Summer 2020, almost 80% of the brands belogn to the Portuguese fashion system.

Marques Almeida shown at the Serralves Viero foundation and Alexandra Moura, who took part in the last Milan fashion week of September. Among these, many young international fashion designers presented their men’s and women’s collections of streetwear and tailoring showing a wide choice of stylistic offer on an international level. David Catalan for example, presented a collection with clean and sporty but classic cuts, with a refined color palette.

The Estelita Mendonca collection was inspired by an aesthetic mood proposing modern but at the same time sporty style.

Duarte focuses on mixing different fabrics through the use of leathers and knits with technical fabrics and handcrafted prints.

Miguel Viera walked the runway proposing a very interesting collection, featured by strong masculine patterns and elegant women’s dresses in mint green, emerald, beige, burgundy blue and bold patterns.

Marques Almeida in a truly unique setting, in the gardens of the Serralves Viero foundation museum, proposed a denim rock woman, with a London but conservative taste.

Always in a perfect setting, at sunset, on the bank of the Dongo river, Diego Miranda paraded icons who seemed to have just come out of a movie set, in bright colors, beige, green to blue with rich details that enhanced the appearance of a Victorian lady but at the same time gritty.

Sophia Kah has proposed a romantic collection with wide-brimmed hats and long gipsy dresses with soft tones with embroidered finishes.

In the Congress Center halls eight footwear brands and four brands specialized in the kidwear sector had exhibited their collection; of particular interest I found the Davii tailoring rtw line with a black and white couture cut with geometrical and optical designs.

During the fashion week, sustainability was a topic with important guests such as Marina Spadafora coordinator for Italy of Fashion Revolution. At the same time, the First Design Biennial was held, open until December 8th, Post Millenium Tension dedicated to design and recyclable materials.

Adelaide Carta was one of the brands that took part of the event and that I liked very much, with her collection of bags made 100% of natural fibers (organic cotton, cotton, linen) vegetable, viscose, or recycled. Among the sustainable brands, Nycole presented its commitment to sustainability with a casual wardrobe, based on cleaner and more versatile design pieces, with shades of orange red and blue colors.

Sensify is another Portuguese sustainable brand of local production that I looked at with interest; her collection is made of natural fibers such as bamboo, cashmere, linen and silk certified Gots Units.