PITTI FAIR – What is the new formal today? Tradition and innovation are the guides to follow for the FW season 2020

The man’s winter edition is plenty of special projects for the future of the global fashion community.

“Pitti is like the United Nations of Fashion where each brand has its own flag but also where each of us can become the flag of ourselves” says Agostino Poletto General Manager of Pitti Immagine. The flag is not a silent fabric but it tells the story of the thought belonging to every country in the world.

Pitti is back for the FW 97th edition on men’s fashion scenarios with a turnout of about 36,000 visitors.

Going in order of date, on January 7th Brioni offered a special presentation on the first day of opening at Pitti. An event curated by Oliver Saillard presented the collection with an installation that pays tribute to him, a reminiscent return of the brand’s first fashion show held in 1952 at Palazzo Pitti.

Jil Sander was the guest designer and presented the new menswear collection in the iconic fashion house with a special event held on Wednesday January 8th.

Special guest was Stefano Pilati with “Random Identities” the first independent project with a special event held on January 9th. This is a collection conceived for the digital age with exceptional quality clothing to satisfy a high-quality clientele. Also on the same day, the unisex Telfar brand presented the special Project Pitti (Telfar Clemens who founded the brand in 2005 in New York) and brought its concept through a special event of fluid fashion “simplex” (simplex + complex). His creations are born by reworking vintage clothes exhibited in museums around the world like the Guggenheim and the New Museum in New York.

During those days there were also special events such as, Blauer with Human Landascapes, an exhibition that told the story through images and visual narration landscapes and characters related to their brand’s storyboard, the French brand Chevignon celebrated its 40th anniversary with a special event held on January 7th. Woolrich returned to Pitti with “The Ultimate Woolrich Experience” an installation that inaugurated the Arctic Parka, a tribute to the evolution of the iconic garment. For sportswear, Sergio Tacchini presented his new collection with the new stylist Dao-Yi-Chao, on January 8th, while K-Way introduced an event to celebrate the history of the historic raincoat brand.

Pitti inaugurated new spaces; Think Green held the headquarter in Lyceum where debates took place on conscious production and eco-design.
The debuts I saw for this season can be summarized as follows: Herno, Closed, Falke, Sergio Rossi Uomo, Bosco, brand of the Russian group Bosco di Ciliegi. Arc’teryx Veilance (Canada) F / CE (Japan) and Rolf Ekroth (Finland) were among the new brands to report.

Into the Future Male Pavilion, I saw the return of Sealup and Cote & Ciel a Parisian brand of backpacks, Hunter, Jet Set founded in St. Moritz in 1969. Daoyuan Ding, winner of the ITS award.

The concept “My wardrobe man outerwear to innovate wool craftmanship” was launched, an idea by Woolmark company.

The projects on the new scenarios of fashion design also included Scandinavian brands, in collaboration with Revolver Copenaghen.
Always at the forefront for collaborations at the Touch Pavilion there was the return of the finalists of the Tokyo Fashion Award and at the Strozzi Arena the designers of Chinese brands which are more and more increasingly becoming part of our fashion global scene.

The Central Pavilion with the Italian Classic always remains the centerpiece of the fair, a central square for tailoring, able to mix the most classic styles with casual clothing and sportswear.

Touch is the section that combines internationality with stylistic research. The most Street style Pavilions still remain Lyceum, Unconventional, Cavaniglia Pavilion and other neighboring areas. If you are a buyer and you want to prepare yourself better before your visit to Pitti for next SS season, I recommend downloading Pitti Smart App to discover all the services and preview and the brand history of the participants.

To summarize, the new themes that this year Pitti wanted to trasmit through the fashion shows / presentations listed, were the “new formal” a mixture of classic and contemporary style.

On the innovation side, there was a special area dedicated to young emerging brands with a focus on sustainability, a topic subject increasingly in the fashion sector. Will tell you more in my next visit, crossing fingers that we’ll defeat corona virus soon.